Rabbit

Products Pet Animals Pet Rodents Rabbit

Rabbit Retailers

Rabbits are small mammals in the family Leporidae of the order Lagomorpha, found in several parts of the world. There are seven different genera in the family classified as rabbits, including the European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus), cottontail rabbit (genus Sylvilagus; 13 species), and the Amami rabbit (Pentalagus furnessi, endangered species on Amami Ōshima, Japan). There are many other species of rabbit, and these, along with cottontails, pikas, and hares, make up the order Lagomorpha. Rabbits generally live between four and twenty years. A rabbit's gestation period is 28 to 31 days.

Rabbits are clearly distinguished from hares in that rabbits are altricial, having young that are born blind and hairless. In contrast, hares are generally born with hair and are able to see (precocial). All rabbits (except the cottontail rabbit) live underground in burrows or warrens, while hares live in simple nests above the ground (as does the cottontail rabbit), and usually do not live in groups. Hares are generally larger than rabbits, with longer ears, and have black markings on their fur. Hares have not been domesticated, while rabbits are often kept as house pets. In gardens, they are typically kept in hutches –small, wooden, house-like boxes– that protect the rabbits from the environment and predators.

Most people are surprised to find out how social house rabbits are. House rabbits become part of the family, just as cats, dogs, and birds do, and often get along well with these other animals. It is not uncommon to see the house rabbit grooming the cat or dog. House rabbits learn their name and come when called. Other tricks that they can learn include begging and jumping hurdles.

A rabbit needs at least two hours of out-of cage time in a safe environment (see house proofing below). His strong muscles in his back legs will weaken if he is not given opportunities to run, jump, and play. When a rabbit plays, he will often do a binky, which is a happy dance where the rabbit will jump in the air, turn 180°, and take off running. When calm and receiving pets on the head, he will gently grind his teeth with contentment. Rabbits enjoy gentle, quiet attention from their human counterparts, although most do not like to be cuddled, which takes them too far from their natural comfort zone as prey animals.

House rabbit organizations warn that a rabbit does not make a good pet for small children because they do not know how to stay quiet, calm, and gentle around the rabbit. The organization recommend rabbits as great pets for people who are older than 10, have patience, and have time to devote attention to their rabbit.

Rabbits need a pen that is at least 4 times the length of the rabbit. A dog training folding fence 26 or more inches tall serves as a simple pen. Other people buy large dog cages. House rabbit organizations caution against using a grid floor, as this will cause sore hocks (sores on the bottom of the rabbit’s back feet). Carpet or linoleum can be added to a cage that has a grid floor to protect the rabbit’s feet. Another option for a rabbit cage is a multiple-level condo. The rabbit condo can be made by using cable ties and storage cubes (sample building instructions). This provides the rabbit plenty of jumping options and variety. Basic necessities for the cage include a litter box, water, food bowl, hay, and toys.

It is of paramount importance to provide proper ventilation for a rabbit, to prevent respiratory problems as a result of ammonia build-up caused by their urine. Cages constructed entirely of wire are commonly used for both ventilation and sanitation purposes. Solid bottom cages can be used with Giant breeds that require the solid floor to prevent sore hocks. Wire cages can pose risks to the animal, as wire mesh can be painful to their feet, and can cause the development of abscesses on the soles which can be fatal, as well as breaking their toes if their nails get caught in the mesh. Solid flooring is preferable, at least on a portion of the cage floor, to allow the rabbit to rest its feet. Wire cages are known to be easier to clean and sanitize than wooden hutches.+

Rabbits have traditionally been housed outdoors and do produce quantities of waste that may be difficult to handle indoors, which can be measured in cubic yards per year. This waste is excellent for gardening and composting. The cage should be as large as possible, at least high enough for the rabbit to stand on its back legs without its head touching the ceiling. It should be able to take 4 or 5 hops along the cage. Rabbits kept outdoors must be provided with shelter. This shelter may be heated in winter (although many rabbits can be kept outside with extra bedding even into temperatures below freezing ) but must be shaded in summer. One option is to use a garden shed or summer house as a 'rabbit shed', in which case roof insulation should be used to keep it cool in hot weather and warmer in cool weather. Note that anything with a large number of windows, such as a greenhouse, is unsuitable as temperature is not easily moderated. Large rabbits (New Zealand) do fine in -10 degree Celsius/15 degree Fahrenheit weather in a hutch with plenty of straw, if their needs for food and water are well met. Frozen water bottles need to be changed two or three times daily. Below this temperature it is necessary to shelter all animals in a barn or basement or garage. Covering cages three quarters of the way with a blanket, several cages grouped together generate a great deal of heat. One rule is at least eight pounds of animal per cage. Even newborn rabbits do well in cold if they have sufficient nest and many siblings to snuggle with. Keep mom with them longer in the winter for warmth. Domesticated rabbits are most comfortable in temperatures between 10 to 21 degrees C (50 to 70 degrees F), and cannot endure temperatures above 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) without assistance such as fans, frozen water bottles, and deep shade. Rabbits adore the shade of trees and bushes and love the taste of apple twigs and maple leaves and new grown grass, outdoor treats they seldom find in an apartment.

A rabbit is easy to litter train, especially if the rabbit has been spayed or neutered. When a rabbit is placed in a new area, it is common for him to mark the area with his droppings. After he gets acquainted to the area, he naturally starts favoring a certain location. A litter box, usually a small cat litter box, filled with about one inch of non-toxic litter, is placed there. Most pet stores carry safe litter that is easy to handle, clean, and absorbent. Sawdust pellets (wood stove fuel pellets), Carefresh, and Yesterday’s News are popular. Litter made from pine or cedar is not used because inhaling the aromatic oils in them may cause liver damage to the rabbit. Placing the hay close to the litter box can speed up the training, since rabbits like to defecate and eat at the same time.

The best food for rabbits would consist of what they generally feed on in the wild. This would consist predominantly of fresh grass with an additional mixute of other green plants. Grass/hay should comprise around 70% of the diet and a lack of grass/hay will in all likelihood lead to dental problems such as malocclusion, and digestive problems including problems in forming
caecotrophes.

Dark green, leafy vegetables will also be much appreciated by rabbits. Individual rabbits vary in their preferences but vegetables such as romaine, escarole, turnip, collard, kale, parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion and basil can all be fed. These should be fed in small amounts and introduced slowly as rabbits have delicate digestive systems. Cauliflower and cabbage should be avoided because they cause gas and can lead to gi stasis which can be deadly. Fruits can be fed as treats approximately one tablespoon per four pounds (1 T per 4 lbs) of body weight , as they are high in sugars. Starchy vegetables such as potatoes or corn should be avoided. When feeding vegetables to a rabbit for the first time, begin with one type, then slowly introduce others, until the rabbit has become accustomed to at least three different kinds of vegetables per serving; a variety of food keeps the rabbit's interest. Once a rabbit is introduced to vegetables, it should be fed vegetables daily (keeping in mind that grass/hay should make up the bulk of the diet).

If fresh grass or hay is not available then a high quality pellet can be used. When choosing commercial feeds, choose those that do not include nuts, as nuts contain more fat than rabbits can easily metabolize, and may cause health problems, such as fatty liver. Nuts are commonly found in rodent food; as rabbits are not rodents, this food should be avoided.

Pellets should be fed one ounce per pound of body weight per day. However, pellets should be offered as a supplement to hay only - exclusively feeding a rabbit pellets can lead to life-threatening dental disease. Only by chewing hay or grass daily can a rabbit wear down their back teeth sufficiently (their teeth grow constantly, as with rodents). Traditionally, pellets are fed to rabbits bred for meat, and tend to cause excess weight gain. If a rabbit is fed pellets, a salt block is not necessary, as pellets are high in salt, though salt blocks are not otherwise harmful to rabbits.

Unlike rabbit commercial rabbits, pellets account for only a small portion of a rabbit’s diet. Pellet amounts are determined by the weight of the rabbit and is listed on the back of the manufacturer’s packaging. Adult house rabbits generally eat pellets made from timothy grass. Rabbits less than 6 months old eat pellets made of alfalfa grass, which has more calories. House rabbits of all ages are provided an unlimited amount of timothy hay—roughage that reduces the chance of blockages. House rabbits are typically given about 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. of body weight and up to 2 tablespoons of fruit per 6 lbs. body weight daily. Rabbits are provided an unlimited amount of fresh water. House rabbit owners commonly provide treats, although in very limited quantities, which can include a few pellets, a slice of strawberry, or other healthy foods. Advertised treats in the pet stores are occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically have a very high sugar content.

House rabbit needs at least two hours daily out of his cage to run and explore. He is provided an area where he is free to roam in which hazards (to house or bunny) have been mitigated. For example, to prevent electrocution, an owner will hide electrical cords cover them with flexible clear tubing (slit lengthwise), such as that purchased in the plumbing section of a home store. Another commonly protected item is woodwork, which is subject to being chewed; this problem is mitigated by providing something in the room that will attract the rabbit to chew instead, such as an old phone book, large pieces of paper, or a toilet paper roll. Despite the hazards of a house, it does provide an inherent shelter; house rabbit owners do not leave their rabbits outside unattended, since prey animals may attack, or there may be pesticides that can harm the rabbit.

Emergency health concerns, such as a rabbit not eating or head tilt require immediate veterinary attention. A veterinarian can also assist with chronic conditions such as malocclusion.[1] In most regions, house rabbits do not require vaccination; however, in the UK they do to protect against myxomatosis and hemorrhagic viral diseases.[2][3] Some owners visit a vet for advice on topics such as diet, although others rely on their own experience or the experience of others, such as knowledgable people in a house rabbit organization. In any case, house rabbit organizations recommend finding a vet before an emergency occurs, since not all vets are knowledgeable about rabbits. The House Rabbit Society maintains a list of veterinarians who practice veterinary medicine on rabbits.

Rabbits have nails and teeth that grow continually. The teeth growth is countered naturally by the rabbit chewing wood toys. However, a house rabbit still requires his nails be trimmed by a human at least once a month. Many owners learn to do this themselves.

Rabbits shed on average of once every three months. During this shedding time, it is beneficial to brush the rabbit with a gentle rubber brush.

A neutered or spayed house rabbit will be happier, healthier, and will be easier to litter box train. Unless they are being used for breeding, it is generally agreed that female rabbits should be spayed, as unspayed rabbits have high incidences of ovarian cancer. Rabbits, unlike dogs or cats, don't go into heat, they are constantly ready for breeding as soon as they reach breeding age, thus the adage "breed like rabbits." There are some health and behavior benefits from the neutering of male rabbits as well.[citation needed] If left intact, rabbits may spray urine in order to mark territory. Male rabbits and female rabbit spray as part of sexuality and will soil most of the food and water dishes of nearby rabbits, and the rabbits themselves. Rabbits can be very aggressive towards other rabbits unless they have bonded. Spaying or neutering both animals may help make this process successful. It is not recommended to house two unbonded rabbits together in the same cage and assume that they will cohabitate. Even normally docile rabbits can become violent when left with an unbonded partner. This is common, but does not always take place. Females especially are very territorial, and thus when breeding must be taken to the male's cage.

Unlike cats, rabbits cannot be declawed. Lacking pads on the bottoms of their feet, rabbits require their claws for balance, and removing a rabbit’s claws will render it unable to stand, permanently crippling the animal. Rabbits with access to rough surfaces will naturally keep their claws worn down to a certain extent when running, but pet rabbits will normally require their claws to be clipped regularly. This is especially true of house rabbits that only run on soft surfaces such as carpets. It is very important that claws are clipped by someone with experience (preferably a trained veterinary practitioner), as clipping the claws too short will damage them.




INQUIRY FORM


  Contact Information * fields are mendatory  
Your Name *
Company Name
Address *
Country *
Email ID *
Phone Number *
Fax
  Inquiry Details
Inquiry For
Details *
   

Please allow block content to view flash animation.
[ Download Flash Player ]

Select Your Language : English Espanol Francis Deutsch Italy Portugues